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A brooch is a piece of jewelry or costume jewelry that is pinned to clothing. However, modern fashion has expanded its use: today, this accessory can be seen on bags and even on shoes, which speaks to its versatility.
A brooch is a piece of jewelry or costume jewelry that is pinned to clothing. However, modern fashion has expanded its use: today, this accessory can be seen on bags and even on shoes, which speaks to its versatility.
The brooch owes its incredible popularity in the 20th century to the legendary Coco Chanel. It was she who asserted that one should start a jewelry collection with brooches. Without her modest but significant contribution, this elegant accessory might not have secured such a revered place in the wardrobes of fashionistas worldwide.
| Term | Description |
| Cameo | A piece of jewelry with a raised, relief image. |
| Intaglio | A piece of jewelry with a recessed, incised relief. |
Another famous Frenchwoman who left her mark on the history of brooches is the Marquise de Sévigné. She is credited with inventing bow-shaped brooches. The Marquise created a whole 'language of love,' allowing people to communicate using these pieces of jewelry, giving them a special, secret meaning.
In the world of brooches, pieces with relief images are common, and they have their own names. It is important to distinguish between the two main types of such jewelry.
Identifying a vintage brooch is a fascinating process that requires attention to detail. There are several key methods that can help determine the age and origin of a piece of jewelry.
The most important element for dating is the clasp on the back of the brooch, as its design has changed significantly over time.
A thorough examination of the back of a brooch can reveal a lot about its age. You should pay attention to how it is finished, whether the construction is solid (cast) or soldered from several elements. The nature and quality of the workmanship are important markers of the era.
One indicative element is the 'trombone' clasp, which was common in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It is also important to examine the stone settings: the way they are cut and the method of attachment. In antique pieces, stones were most often set using a bezel setting, whereas in cheaper and more modern jewelry, they might simply be glued on.
When searching for antique jewelry, precious metals can serve as a primary guide. The featured collection includes pieces made of 750-fineness gold with white gold and diamond inserts, as well as examples with pearls. There are also unique brooches, for instance, one with an Austrian ducat in a filigree setting, which can also be worn as a pendant.
Silver brooches are also of great interest to collectors. Among them, you can find gilded items as well as jewelry with inserts of onyx, jade, marcasite, or pearls. Some pieces have a dual purpose—they can be used both as a brooch and a pendant.
Soviet jewelry, for example, with amber, holds a special place. The hallmark with a letter on such pieces ('Я' for Ya or 'К' for K) can indicate that they were produced either in Kaliningrad or in the Baltic republics.
The size of a brooch often determines how and with what it was worn. There is a conventional classification that helps to understand the purpose of a particular piece of jewelry.