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The antiques market is filled not only with unique items with a history but also with their modern copies, known as 'reproductions.' These are items intentionally created to look old, and their production has now reached an industrial scale. Distinguishing such an item from a genuine artifact can be difficult, as forgery masters have learned to imitate the styles and technologies of past eras.
The antiques market is filled not only with unique items with a history but also with their modern copies, known as 'reproductions.' These are items intentionally created to look old, and their production has now reached an industrial scale. Distinguishing such an item from a genuine artifact can be difficult, as forgery masters have learned to imitate the styles and technologies of past eras.
The main goal of creating a reproduction is to mislead the buyer by selling a modern copy at the price of a real antique. Therefore, for anyone interested in old items, it is critically important to learn to see the difference and understand how to distinguish a reproduction from an antique to avoid falling victim to deception.
Despite their skillful execution, most reproductions can be identified by several common signs. These criteria serve as a starting point for any appraisal and help weed out obvious fakes at an early stage. It is important to evaluate the item comprehensively, paying attention to every small detail.
There are three main markers that most often betray a modern copy. Experienced collectors always check an item against these points:
| Characteristic | Genuine Bronze | Reproduction |
| Weight | Heavy, dense, solid | Lighter due to cheap alloys, may be hollow |
| Patina | Uneven, deep, natural shades | Uniform, superficial, often unnaturally green or black |
| Detailing | Possible traces of hand-finishing, slight asymmetry | Sharp, machine-made lines, perfect symmetry, blurring of fine details |
Bronze items are a popular target for forgeries. The first thing to pay attention to is the weight. Authentic antique bronze is a heavy and dense material. Reproductions are often made from lighter alloys, such as silumin, coated with bronze-colored paint.
The second important aspect is the patina, the noble film that forms on metal over time. On genuine items, it is uneven, has different shades, and penetrates deep into the metal. On fakes, the patina is artificial, created chemically, so it looks too uniform and can be easily rubbed off.
When appraising antique porcelain, details play a key role. Genuine pieces from old manufactories often have a characteristic weight and balance that is difficult to replicate. The glaze on old porcelain may develop a network of fine cracks (crazing) over time and show signs of wear, whereas on a reproduction, it will be perfectly smooth and shiny.
Special attention should be paid to the painting and the mark. Hand-painting on antique pieces is lively, with visible brushstrokes, while copies often use decals—a transfer image that looks too perfect and flat. The mark on fakes may be blurry, smudged, or not match known examples from a specific period and manufactory.
Antique furniture is particularly vulnerable to forgeries, as the artificial aging of wood has become an entire industry. The main sign of authenticity is the natural signs of use. Scuffs, scratches, and dents should be located in logical places: on armrests, handles, legs, and the corners of tabletops.
Artificially aged furniture often has uniform damage across its entire surface, which looks unnatural. It is also important to examine the construction. Antique furniture used joints like dovetails, wooden dowels, and forged nails. The presence of modern screws, staples, or traces of PVA glue is a sure sign of a reproduction or a significant later restoration.
Check the back panels and the inside surfaces of drawers. Forgery makers often treat only the visible parts, leaving the internal elements in their pristine, new condition. The wood of old furniture darkens and shrinks over time, which is also difficult to imitate.
